When people think of Belitung, they often envision an island rich in natural beauty, especially its stunning beaches. But beyond the turquoise waters and granite boulders lies a different kind of treasure: white pepper. Once known as the “King of Spice,” this pepper has not only shaped the island’s history but also played a significant role in global trade routes.

A Spicy Legacy Rooted in History

Belitung’s connection with white pepper dates back centuries, intertwined with the island’s rich history as a feeder point of the Srivijaya Empire. Kota Kapur, an ancient settlement on the island, was a bustling trade hub where goods like pepper, tin, and spices were exchanged with merchants from India, China, and beyond. Archeological discoveries, including Chinese ceramics and the remains of ancient boats, paint a vivid picture of a time when Belitung was at the heart of the global spice trade.

The Srivijaya Empire, a powerful maritime kingdom that ruled over parts of Southeast Asia, relied on these trade cities, including Kota Kapur, to export valuable commodities like pepper. This spicy little berry, known locally as “sahang,” became so valuable that it inspired the phrase “semahal lada” or “as expensive as pepper,” a testament to its worth and the prosperity it brought to the island.

The Challenges of Modern-Day Cultivation

Fast forward to today, and Belitung’s relationship with white pepper is not as rosy as it once was. The island, which remains Indonesia’s top producer of white pepper, has seen a steady decline in both the area of pepper plantations and the quantity of pepper harvested. The reasons are many, but two of the biggest culprits are the global market price and competition from other industries like tin mining and palm oil.

In the past, pepper farming was the lifeblood of many communities in Belitung. However, the economic challenges of recent years, exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic, have pushed many farmers to abandon their pepper fields in favor of more lucrative opportunities in tin mining or palm oil plantations. The allure of quick profits has led to a significant decrease in the land dedicated to pepper cultivation, with plantation areas shrinking from over 52,000 hectares in 2019 to just 44,548 hectares by 2022.

But why would farmers trade in their pepper plants, which have sustained families for generations, for other industries? The answer lies in the volatility of the pepper market. Prices for white pepper have fluctuated dramatically, leaving farmers uncertain about their future income. Without a stable trading system or better market support, many have felt they have no choice but to seek more reliable sources of income.

A Glimmer of Hope for the Future

Despite these challenges, there is hope on the horizon for Belitung’s pepper farmers. Local governments and agricultural agencies are working together to revive the industry by offering support to farmers, including distributing superior seeds and providing technology to improve yields. There are also efforts to establish a more robust trading system for pepper, which could help stabilize prices and make pepper farming a more viable option once again.

Additionally, the cultural significance of pepper in Belitung remains strong. Pepper is deeply ingrained in local traditions, from being a key ingredient in the flavorful dishes of Malay Belitong cuisine to its role in traditional ceremonies. For example, the Maras Taun ceremony, a ritual of gratitude led by a traditional leader known as Mak Panggong, involves the use of various spices, including pepper, symbolizing both the hardships and the prosperity it brings.

The Spice of Life

Belitung’s white pepper is more than just a spice; it’s a symbol of the island’s rich history and cultural heritage. While the industry faces significant challenges, there is a concerted effort to keep this legacy alive. For now, as the island continues to balance the old with the new, the story of Belitung’s white pepper remains a spicy tale of heritage, resilience, and hope. As you savor the flavor of this iconic spice, remember that each peppercorn carries with it centuries of history and the enduring spirit of a community determined to keep its traditions alive.

Source: “The Story of Enchanting Spices in Bangka Belitung Islands”, Jalur Rempah – Ministry of Education and Culture, December 2020; “White pepper in Babel losing ground to tin and palm oil” Antara news agency, June 2023